Installation Guideline for Under Counter Standard Reverse Osmosis System

Your new reverse osmosis drinking water system processes, stores and dispenses water. It operates on normal home water pressure between 40 – 65 psi. The inlet water pressure, the water temperature and the amount of TDS (total dissolved solids) affect the efficiency of the reverse osmosis system.

In most cases your new reverses osmosis system will come with clear and concise installation instructions. In the event you did not receive installation instructions, or if you are just interested in knowing how a reverse osmosis system is installed, the following guide should prove to be very useful. Keep in mind that there are many different types of reverse osmosis systems on the market and the guidelines below may not apply to your specific system. Contact the manufacturer of your system for product specific instructions.

Before beginning the installation, you should always check to make sure you have everything necessary to complete the installation.

Your new system consists of the following items:

- RO Unit (1)
- Storage Tank (1)
- Faucet and Installation Kit (1)

Have on hand the following tools and materials during the installation process.

- Wrenches Sizes 7/16”, 9/16”, ½” & 5/8”
- Phillips Screw Driver- Drill With 3/8” Chuck
- Drill Bits Sizes ¼” or 1 1/8” For Air Gap faucet

PLEASE READ AND BECOME FAMILIAR WITH ALL INSTRUCTIONS AND PARTS BEFORE STARTING THE INSTALLATION PROCESS

Step 1. Installation Location

Find a suitable location where the system can be installed. Make sure there is sufficient space under the counter for proper installation. Locate the “cold” water shut off valve and sink drainpipe.

Step 2. Closing Cold Water Valve

Shut off the “cold” water supply under the sink or the location where the system will be installed. If the existing “cold” water valve is inoperable, the water supply to the house must be shut off. Then, relieve the line pressure by opening the “cold” water faucet.

Step 3. Connecting To Cold Water Line

There are several options when connecting the reverse osmosis unit to the cold-water source. They are:

3.1 Saddle valve (Standard) – Assemble saddle valve clamp on the “cold” water line. Turn the pipe clamp adjustment plate to fit the contour of the pipe. (Small radius for 3/8” pipe, larger radius for 7/16” through 5/8” pipe). Tighten bolt so saddle valve is firmly attached to feed water pipe (be careful not to over tighten).

3.2 Ez adapter. (Optional) : Use some Teflon tape to prevent leaks. Assemble 90 degree needle valve into the feed adapter.

** Flex line installation: Disconnect the flex line at the sink and install the feed adapter. Reconnect the flex line to the adapter.

** Solid line installation: Disconnect the line at the sink cut off approximately ¾” off the line. Install the feed adapter and reconnect line to the feed adapter.

Step 4. Drain Line Connection: CAUTION: If the drain line pipe is badly corroded replace it.

At a point approximately six (6) inches above the trap, drill a 5/16” diameter bole through one wall of the pipe. Attach the drain clamp; making sure that the hole in the clamp is aligned with the hole in the pipe. Use a punch or drill bit to align the holes while tightening the clamp. Be careful not to over tighten the clamp.

Step 5. Faucet Installation:

The faucet must be positioned with aesthetics, function and convenience in mind. An ample flat area is required for the faucet base, so the base nut can be properly tightened. Conditions may exists which eliminate the need to drill a hole in the sink.

5a. A hole previously installed in the sink, covered by a chrome plate cover. Remove the cover and mount the faucet.

5b. A spray hose that may not be functioning or needed. Remove the spray hose and plug the outlet under the main faucet. If the sprayer uses a diverter at the base of the spout remove it, as the sprayer diverter may pop up and shut the water off to the main faucet.

5c. If space is not available on the upper sink area, the faucet can be located in the counter top close to the edge of the sink. Be careful to watch for obstructions below the counter such as drawers, cabinet walls, support braces etc. If the counter top is ceramic tile the method for drilling the faucet hole is the same as for drilling a porcelain sink.

5d. The drilling process although not complicated, requires a certain amount of caution and preparation. Porcelain enameled sinks can be chipped if care is not exercised when drilling the hole for the faucet assembly. There are several ways of drilling the holes in to porcelain sinks without chipping; we have found these two methods work very well.

D.1 Using a carbide grinding wheel, grind away the porcelain where the ¼” diameter hole is to be drilled. Drill a ¼” diameter hole through the metal. This method results in a very clean and smooth hole.

D.2 Using a heavy duty variable speed drill and a carbide tip drill bit, carefully drill a ¼” diameter hole through the porcelain and metal sink.

Caution: Do not allow metal chips to remain on the porcelain surface of the sink for any length of time, the metal chips will stain the sink and be very difficult to remove.

5e. For stainless steel sinks, simply drill a ¼” diameter hole. Lightly file the edge of the hole to make sure it is smooth and free of any burrs.

Step 6. Faucet Installation.

Once the hole has been drilled in the sink, the faucet stem may be inserted in the hole. Be sure the faucet body, faucet base and the rubber faucet base washer are in place above the sink.

Install the star lock washer and nut on the faucet stem under the sink and tighten firmly while aligning faucet in the desired direction. Once the faucet is installed, attach the ¼” tubing on to the bottom of the faucet stem and tighten.

Note: Some states require the use of an air gap faucet. To assure compliance check you local plumbing code. Locate the drain connection away from the garbage disposal to prevent potential contamination and system fouling.

Air gap faucet installation instructions:

Place the chrome washer and rubber washer on the base of the faucet. Slip the ¼” black line from the system through the hole in the sink. From the topside of the sink, slip the ¼” black line from system onto the barbed fitting located in the faucet base. The 3/8” black line from barb output is to be run as straight down hill as possible to the drain clamp. Avoid low spots or loops. Place faucet into the hole of the sink then from underneath sink, replace parts and tighten the hold down nut. Connect the ¼” blue line to the threaded faucet stem.

Step 7. Unit Location

Place the system and the water storage tank in an area under the sink so they are out of the way. If the system is to be hung on the wall be sure there is enough clearance from the cabinet floor to the bottom of the filter housing sump, leave at least 3 inches. Drill two 1/8” pilot holes that match up to the mounting holes in the systems bracket, mount the system to the cabinet wall.

Step 8. System hook up.

Remove any red caps from the end of the tubing. There may be water present in these lines if the system was wet tested at the factory, so keep a towel handy to wipe up any water.

Note: color of lines may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer – we have attempted to use industry standard colors in describing the system hook up procedures.

8A. Connect the units orange feed water line to the saddle valve or EZ adapter installed on the cold water line. Use the plastic delrin sleeve that are provided in the installation kit and discard any brass ferrules that may have been provided.

8B. Connect the black line from the unit directly to the drain clamp assembly. If an air gap faucet is used see instruction listed under air gap faucet installation instructions.

8C. Connect the green line to the RO water storage tank.

8D. Connect the blue line from the unit to the faucet.

Note: Make sure all inserts, sleeves and ferrules provided in the installation kit are used.

THIS IS A GOOD TIME TO DOUBLE CHECK AND MAKE SURE ALL YOUR FITTINGS ARE TIGHT AND THE TUBING IS SECURE IN THE FITTINGS.

Step 9. Starting Up the System

9A. Turn off the storage tank ball valve, this will ensure no water can enter the tank. Slowly turn on the cold water supply valve to the sink. If you have not already done so, open the valve of the cold-water self-piercing valve (turn counter clockwise to open). Check for any leaks around the valve. If any leaks are detected turn off cold water supply valve and make necessary repairs.

9B. Open the reverse osmosis faucet on the sink. You will hear a gurgling noise. This is normal air being cleared from the system. It will take approximately 10-15 minutes before you actually see water dripping from the reverse osmosis faucet. (Flip the faucet handle up to keep the faucet open during this time.) The initial water dripping from the faucet may be black in color; this is the water flushing carbon fines from the carbon post filters. Allow the water to drip from the faucet for 10-15 minutes then close the faucet

9C. Now open the ball valve on the reverse osmosis storage tank, which will allow the tank to fill. This will take approximately 4-10 hours. During this period of time check all fittings for any leaks. If any leaks are found turn off cold-water line and make the necessary correction. Once the tank is full open the faucet and drain the system completely (until you are getting only a drip from the faucet). Shut the reverse osmosis faucet off and allow the system to re-fill.

9D. It is recommended on new installations that you drain the system 3 times prior to use.

9E. Make a daily check for any leaks during the first week after installation and check for leaks occasionally thereafter.

If you have a refrigerator with an automatic water dispenser and/or ice maker and would like to use the water from your reverse osmosis system for theses applications you will find the following guideline very useful.

Hooking Up Your Reverse Osmosis System to Your Refrigerator

1. Install a Tee fitting on the tubing going from the post filter to the reverse osmosis faucet. Run a ¼” polypropylene tube up to 30’ from the reverse osmosis system and connect to the refrigerator. Over a 30’ run use a tube larger than ¼” for best results. DO NOT USE COPPER. Be sure you have the recommended water pressure to your ice- maker according to the refrigerator manufacturer. This tube needs tube inserts on both ends.
   
2. It is recommended to install a ball valve on the tube to the refrigerator for service and start up purposes. Keep ball valve off until start up procedures is completed and reverse osmosis tank is completely full and ready to drink.
   IMPORTANT: To avoid damaging the ice makers solenoid, Never turn ice maker on until you have a full tank of water.

Filter and Membrane Changing Procedures:

Recommended Filter Service Life and Filter Change Cycle

Sediment Pre-Filter – Change every 6-12 months more often in areas with very high turbidity in water.

Carbon Pre-Filter – Change every 6-12 months. This will help to ensure membrane life and quality.

Reverse Osmosis Membrane – Change the reverse osmosis membrane when the rejection rate falls below 75%.

Carbon Post Filter – Change this filter every 6 – 12 months to insure quality water. Do not wait until taste is a problem.

All reverse osmosis systems require some periodic maintenance to insure you are getting the same water quality as when the system was new. There is no maintenance more important than timely filter changes.

1. How to Change the Filters & Membrane
It is important to ensure that when changing any filters or membrane on your drinking water system appropriate sanitation and service procedures are used. The following step-by-step guideline will help to ensure those sanitation and service procedures are met.

A. Be certain that only the proper filter cartridges are used for replacement.

B. The filter cartridges should remain in the original packaging until service to the system is performed.

C. The systems service area should be free from any dirt or dust.

D. The person performing the service MUST wash their hands with soap and water prior to performing any of the service work.

E. NEVER RUN HOT WATER THROUGH THE SYSTEM!

FILTER Changes

Step 1. Turn off the water supply line valve to the reverse osmosis system. Close the ball valve on the reverse osmosis storage tank. Open the reverse osmosis faucet and allow the pressure in the system to bleed off.

Step 2. Place a shallow tray under the filter housing, to catch any water that may spill during the filter changing process.

Step 3. Unscrew the filter housing and remove the used filter cartridge. (A special filter-housing wrench is available)

Step 4. Carefully remove the O-ring and place it on a clean surface. Rinse out the filter housing using warm water and a small amount of liquid soap. Be certain that all of the soap is thoroughly rinsed out of the filter housing.

Step 5. Wipe the O-ring clean with a soft clean rag or towel and visually inspect for any nicks cuts or abrasions that may cause the O-ring to improperly seat in the filter housings O-ring groove. If the O-ring appears damaged replace it (O-rings are available from ESP)

Step 6. Lubricate the O-ring lightly with a silicon lubricant. Replace the O-ring in the O-ring filter-housing groove. It is important to be sure the O-ring is properly seated in the groove as it provides the watertight seal between the filter housing and the cap.

Step 7. Remove the new filter from the original plastic wrap. Measure the new filter to be sure it is the proper length.

Step 8. Place the filter in the housing and carefully screw the filter housing back on to the cap of the filter housing (hand tighten only).

Step 9. Turn the feed water supply valve on. Check for leaks.

Step 10. Open the reverse osmosis faucet and allow water to flow until the water is clear. Close faucet. System is now ready for use.

MEMBRANE Changes (for standard replacement membranes)

Step 1. Turn off the water supply line valve to the reverse osmosis system. Close the ball valve on the reverse osmosis storage tank. Open the reverse osmosis faucet and allow the pressure in the system to bleed off.

Step 2. Disconnect tubing from membrane housing. Immediately label which tube came out of which fitting.

Step 3. Unscrew membrane housing end cap and remove membrane. This may require needle- nose pliers.

Step 4. Rinse and clean the inside of membrane housing with warm water.

Step 5. Insert new membrane in housing (o-ring end first) until you feel the o-rings seat into the opposite end cap. To do so you may need to move the membrane in a slight circular motion to center the membrane center tube. If the membrane is not properly seated untreated water will flow unrestricted through the system.

Step 6. Replace and tighten the membrane housing screw cap. Reinstall the tubing you removed to the appropriate fittings.

Step 7. Turn on the water supply line valve until you hear water entering the system. Check for any leaks.

Step 8. Open feed water valve all the way. Allow filling until a steady drip flows from the reverse osmosis faucet.

Step 9. Close reverse osmosis faucet.

Step 10. Open valve on storage tank. Check for any leaks. System is now ready for use.